Our new <3<3MMVOICE voice cards for Memorymoog and Memorymoog Plus are a drop-in modern recreation of the original. Our design supports both vintage CEM3340 oscillators and modern CEM3340 Rev-G oscillator chips, along with component upgrades ensuring that you can keep your classic vintage Memorymoog synth alive and well for decades to come.
SAVE WHEN YOU BUY A SET: When you buy the set of 6, you're paying for 5 and getting the 6th voice for free. We're offering two price points for those of you intent on swapping in your own vintage chips. Option 1: Purchase with the voices set and fully stuffed (populated) with Rev-G CEM3340 oscillators, AS3360 VCAs, and AS3080 OTAs. Option 2: Purchase without any ICs stuffed and set to operate with vintage CEM33040 chips.
Fully refresh your Memorymoog with a full set of 6 <3<3MMVOICES. Buy 6 as a set and get the 6th voice for free.
Need to replace all 6 voices? Purchase a full set
Why do you need new voices? Original Curtis chips are getting harder to find and more expensive. The Alpha AS3340 chips don’t have sufficient tuning range to calibrate properly. Even the Curtis Rev-G chips have slight differences from the originals, which render the Osc2 sync function and pulse-width inoperable. We solved these problems by designing our voices to be “set” by adding or removing a few SMD resistors so that they work with new or vintage chips. Aside from the oscillators, longtime Memorymoog owners and techs know of several common failure points in the original voices, which can result in everything from tuning instability to a completely dead voice.
Lifetime warranty: In the highly unlikely event you need a replacement voice chip down the line, we'll send you one for free. Just send us the untampered faulty module and we'll send you a replacement.
<3<3 is not responsible for shipping cost of returned items.
The battery backup circuit is designed to protect your patch memory in case of peripheral component failure. When a component that runs on the 5-volt rail fails in your synthesizer, it can cause the 5 volts to sag. This sag can make the CPU malfunction and scramble the patch memory as a result. This circuit senses the 5-volt rail that powers all the digital circuitry and switches it to battery power, should the 5-volt rail dip below a safe threshold. Share the instructions with your synth tech.
We strongly recommend having an experienced technician install the <3<3MMPSU.
Looking for a qualified technician to install the <3<3MMPSU? Contact us by email or phone +1 (512) 540-2148.
You'll need: Soldering iron, solder, wire cutters, wire strippers, DeoxIT brand (DN5) deoxidizer, rubber gloves, phillips-head screwdriver, 5/16" and 11/32" socket wrenches, a standard household degreaser, rags, plastic bags for loose screws.
Important: Back-up your patches before you start.
Installing the battery backup circuit will temporarily disconnect the battery power from the static CMOS RAM, and will erase all patches.
Once you've backed up the patches, make sure your Memorymoog is unplugged from the AC outlet.
Now, remove the 9 wood screws on the front and each side of the unit, and the 3 sheet metal screws on the back of the unit.
Remove the lid carefully. Make sure the front piece of trim clears the keyboard.
Apply a liberal amount of DeoxIT to the four screws mounting the power transformer to the chassis and let soak.
Unplug the two wire harnesses connected to the left side of the power switch.
Important: Do not remove the green/yellow stripe Ground wire coming from the IEC power inlet!
Unplug the four wire harnesses and remove the three screws that attach the original power supply pcb to the large black heatsink at the back of the synth.
There is a white heatsink compound that permanently stains clothing! We recommend wearing rubber gloves when removing!
(Optional step)
Remove the 6 screws that fasten the large black heatsink to the back of the synth. Clean the residual white heatsink compound with a rag and standard household cleaner/degreaser.
Replace the large heatsink with the <3<3 back panel using your 11/32" socket wrench and the hardware provided.
Unplug the fuse wire-harness connector and remove the screw that fastens the fuse housing to the bottom of the synth.
(Optional step)
Remove the four screws that mount the fan to the chassis.
Replace the large heatsink with the <3<3 back panel using your 11/32" socket wrench and the hardware provided.
Remove the four screws that fasten the power transformer to the chassis. It will take some effort to remove these, but they should come loose after being sufficiently soaked in DeoxIT.
Reapply and let it soak if needed.
The power transformer and fan should now be free from the chassis.
Using the 4 screws provided, fasten the <3<3MMPSU to the chassis with the 15-pin connector facing towards the front of the synth.
The screw holes in the <3<3MMPSU base plate align with the original screw holes used to mount the power transformer.
Attach the green/yellow stripe ground wire to the grounding screw using a 5/16" socket wrench and the 6-32 lock nut provided.
Attach the green/yellow stripe ground wire to the grounding screw using a 5/16" socket wrench and the 6-32 lock nut provided.
Important: Make sure the connectors are properly fastened to the power switch terminals by checking that they aren’t just being held in place by the plastic insulation on the connectors!
Plug in the 15-pin wire harness connector with the yellow wires towards the left.
Then, plug in the 3-pin red and blue wire harness as shown in the photo.
Proceed to battery backup installation (Step 13).
Remove U14 from its socket and bend pin 10 upwards.
Reseat U14 in its socket and (important) make sure that pin 10 has no connection anymore!
Cut emitter of Q1 near PCB (the lead closest to the back of the synth) and bend the pin upwards.
Solder a jumper wire between the via near U2 and the via near U13 (pin 14).(See photo in Step 16 for overhead view of jumper wire solder-point.)
Important: Make sure to leave enough length to this wire to allow you to access the DMUX board (below) while the 3pin wire harness is still plugged in.
Solder red wire coming from JP2 connector on the new PSU board to R14 side connected to U1 pin 26.
Important: Sometimes an additional resistor is soldered in parallel to R14. Remove that!U1 pin 26, U10 pin 17, U22 pin 1, pin 4, pin 10, and pin 13 should now be connected to the red wire.
Remove CR5.
Important: Make sure to leave enough length to this wire to allow you to access the DMUX board (below) while the 3pin wire harness is still plugged in.
Solder blue wire coming from the JP2 connector on the new PSU to CR6 cathode (grey ring).
Be careful not to touch any neighboring traces.
*When applicable to your Memorymoog
Some Memorymoogs have a trace cut and a jumper added on the bottom of the digital board, underneath U24, circled in blue in both pictures.
To check for this mod, you'll need to remove 4 screws (see red arrows) and tilt the digital board and common analog board backwards on the rear hinged standoffs to see the bottom of the digital board.
If you notice this mod, simply re-solder the wire to reconnect it's original trace, as shown in picture 2.
If you don't see a mod you can disregard this step.
Calibrate the power supply as described in the service manual. Reload the backed-up patches.
Reset and battery back-up are now synchronized.
Here’s what will happen if the +5D rail goes under 4.55V: A reset will occur, stopping the computer. The CMOS RAM will be supplied by the battery, the read/write lines will be disabled, and the computer won’t corrupt the CMOS RAM.
Don't hesitate to email us if you have questions. <3<3
You'll need: screwdriver, sharpie, plastic bags for loose screws.
Make sure your synth is turned off and the power cable is unplugged.
Remove the four screws on the left and right side to loosen the face/lid of your JUNO-106. This gives you access to the inside of your synth.
Place the screws in a plastic bag for reinstallation.
Lift the synth's lid and locate the module board. If you're looking directly down into your synth, the module board is located above the keyboard on the left side.
There are five wire harness connectors on the module board. First, use the sharpie to label each connector's positions for reinstallation. Then, unplug the connectors.
Pro tip: Don't let your module board flex while you unplug the connectors. Let a friend help or use one hand to unplug and the other to hold the board still.
.png)
There are six small screws connecting the board to the body of the JUNO-106. Carefully unscrew each one.
Place the screws in a plastic bag for reinstallation.
Remove the board from your synth.
Then, carefully package it for shipping.
If you have questions abut shipping, please email us at info@doubleheartaudio.com.
Ship your board to Double Heart Audio LLC 2103 E 18th St, Unit B, Austin, TX 78702.
Disclaimer: Double Heart Audio is not responsible for lost mail or damage that may occur through a mail carrier's transport of your board. We recommend that you email us a tracking code along with your order number when your board is en route for extra reassurance. We'll contact you upon receiving your board. Once we complete the installation, we'll get in touch again to let you know when we've shipped your board back to you. You'll pay for our return shipping cost at checkout. Estimated turn-around time is 2 weeks.
You'll need:
.jpg)
Make sure your Memorymoog is unplugged from the AC outlet.
Remove the 9 wood screws on the front and each side of the unit, and the 3 sheet metal screws on the back of the unit.
Remove the lid carefully. Make sure the front piece of trim clears the keyboard.
Locate the six voices on the right.
Locate the eight screws that fasten the top two voices.
Make note of or take a picture of the wire harnesses and ribbon cables configuration. Use a permanent marker to label each cable on the connector housing with its mating connector designator number (example: P13, S11, etc.).
Use your ic extraction tool to remove all the wire harnesses and ribbon cables from the top two voices.
It is strongly advised to only replace two voices at a time to help keep the wire harnesses and ribbon cables in the proper orientation.
Locate the eight screws that fasten the top two voices.
Remove the eight screws, beginning with the four at the front edge/edge closest to the keyboard of the top two voices. These front four screws have a “standoff” sandwiched in -between two voices. Grab these standoffs with needle nose pliers as you remove the screws so they don’t get lost!
Next, remove the four screws at the back edge of the top two voices. The top two voices should now be loose.
Place all screws ina baggie or container.
Push the wire harnesses and ribbon cables aside and remove the top two voices.
Replace the top two voices with <3<3MMVOICE cards. Do not place screws back in yet.
Plug in all the wire harnesses and ribbon cables in their proper orientation. Make sure not to bend any pins when re-inserting the ribbon cable connectors.
Locate the four threaded standoffs at the back edge of the next layer of voices.
Use your ¼” socket to remove the four threaded standoffs. The top four voices should now be loose from the chassis.
Use your ¼” socket to remove the standoffs at the front edge of the bottom two voices to give yourself as much room as possible to replace the remaining voices.
Tilt the top four voices back and note or take a photo of the orientation of the wire harnesses and ribbon cables of the two voices that are mounted upside down.
The length of ribbon cables for these voices limits the amount you can tilt them back, so removing the ribbon cables first, allows better access to the wire harnesses.
Label the wire harnesses and ribbon cables with a permanent marker and remove them.
Replace these two original voices with two <3<3MMVOICE cards as done previously for the top two voices.
Use a permanent marker to number the four “hinged standoffs” at the back edge of the two lower voices so you can replace them in the same orientation.
.jpg)
Use your pliers to unscrew the four hinged standoffs. Note the direction the hinge bends for proper re-installation.
All voices should now be loose from the chassis. Label the wire harnesses and replace the two bottom voices as in the previous steps.
There are some additional wire harnesses in the way, coming from the Contour/Glide pcb, that make the bottom two voices difficult to remove. It is best to remove these two voices by sliding them out towards the right.
Replace the bottom two voices with <3<3MMVOICE cards as in previous steps. Replace the hardware according to the previous steps in reverse order.
Follow the calibration procedure as outlined in the manual, found in our Resources menu on the Double Heart Audio website. Tune the voices according to the “overshoot” method as described in the manual. Do not use the hexadecimal tuning procedure, it is inferior!
Wait to replace the screws and standoffs at the front edge of the top two voices (from Step 2) until you’ve completed tuning/calibration.
Congratulations! Your new <3<3MMVOICE cards are now installed.
Happy soldering
